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Finding Neverland was not on the agenda when I opened Google Maps and clicked through random destinations to decide my next holiday.
Yet here I am on a desert island, surrounded by towering sea cliffs and shipwrecks along an ancient pirate route in the Palawan archipelago of the Philippines.
The Lost Boys brought me here: to the uninhabited island of Cadlao, off the coast of El Nido.
But rather than the characters imagined by J.M. Barrie, these Lost Boys are the crew of Tao Philippines, running group expeditions across the West Philippine Sea.
These remarkable seafarers, many the sons of ex-pirates, were raised among the 11 islands we are exploring on a five-night cruise covering 155 miles (250km) from El Nido, on Palawan Island, to Coron, on Busuanga.
They can navigate the archipelago without a map, catch fish from the boat, climb coconut trees and have a cheeky, but kind. sense of spirit.
Our vessel for the first two days is a 74ft wooden Paraw, a traditional Filipino sailboat with tribal carvings and rigging, followed by a more modern boat to cross choppier waters.
As we set sail from El Nido port, we are accompanied by a pod of dolphins leaping from the water just metres from the deck while hundreds of tropical butterflies soar between the sails.
Laura Sharman visits the uninhabited island of Cadlao, off the coast of El Nido in the Philippines, with help from the ‘Lost Boys’, the crew of Tao Philippines
These remarkable seafarers, many the sons of ex-pirates, were raised among the 11 islands Laura and her group explore on a five-night cruise covering 155 miles (250km) from El Nido
Of the Philippines’ 7,641 islands, we are staying on five of the most remote, sleeping in bamboo huts on otherwise deserted beaches with the bare essentials – a mattress, mosquito net, modest toilet block, and a picnic bench for sharing meals which are all included in the voyage.
Some of the islands lack fresh water so our shower is alfresco, made from a hosepipe and a water tank hung from a tree.
We’re warned to keep our mouths closed while washing and use bottled water for teeth brushing to avoid an upset stomach.
These secluded settings are made possible by Tao’s collaboration with local councils which guarantees a minimal ecological impact on these otherwise unvisited islands, keeping them wild.
Each day, the Lost Boys fish for our supper, reeling in yellowfin tuna, squid, tilapia and barracuda.
This is then barbecued and served on a giant banana leaf with ‘Filipino power’ – their name for the country’s staple dish, garlic rice. It’s the definition of sea-to-plate.
On our first night, here on Cadlao Island, the feast takes place under the light of our head torches and laughter fills the table, free from the distractions of electricity or Wi-Fi.
Of the Philippines’ 7,641 islands, Laura is staying on five of the most remote, sleeping in bamboo huts with just a mattress, mosquito net, modest toilet block, and a picnic bench for sharing meals
The Lost Boys know just where to drop the anchor for this hidden paradise and we swim to shore accompanied by a school of fish dancing at our feet
The Lost Boys know just where to drop the anchor for this hidden paradise and we swim to shore accompanied by a school of fish dancing at our feet.
Its staggering limestone cliffs, dense vegetation and enchanting lagoon are reminiscent of Peter Pan’s Neverland.
Beyond its playful monkeys, fascinating monitor lizards and elusive snakes, this uninhabited gem stands as the largest island in the El Nido archipelago with the tallest peak, reaching 609 metres above sea level.
And we have it all to ourselves for the night.
The trumpeting of a conch shell marks the start of a new day and we set sail for Daracotan Island after an aubergine omelette on the beach.
Starfish larger than my palm decorate the seabed and clownfish retreat into their shelters as we explore the El Nido Shipwreck – a tugboat wreck that succumbed to Typhoon Herming in 1987.
But it’s the deadly box jellyfish that are the most mesmerising marine life we see on our voyage, during the third night, spent on Culion Island.
Approaching the shore via a tropical valley, we observe the enormous translucent creatures being swept beneath the boat’s bow and I dread to think what would happen if I were to dive in for a swim.
Yet the island’s 23,000 residents seem largely unphased by their presence, wading out to their boats barefoot.
The trumpeting of a conch shell marks the start of a new day
Once known as the ‘Island of No Return,’ this haunting destination served as the world’s largest leprosarium in the early 1900s during the American colonisation, the Lost Boys tell me.
Many were banished here under Act 1711 of the Philippine Commission and up to 60 per cent of those treated did not survive their first four years on the island.
What was a place of despair slowly evolved into a community of more than 400 households, leading to a sanitary system, hospital, theatre, town hall and school.
Stepping onto the island via a rickety pontoon, I am grateful to hear that it is now leprosy-free.
It’s hard to imagine its dark history as we make our way to our bamboo huts beneath a forest canopy speckled with Pink Rain Lilies.
Now it’s a very different place.
In a clearing bordered by fire torches, women from the neighbouring Coring village are offering a one-hour full body massage for just 1,500 Philippine Pesos (£20), with their children sat beside them playing on smartphones.
And by the waterfront is now a manmade plunge pool overlooking the enchanting albeit jellyfish-infested valley.
Each day, the Lost Boys fish for the evening meal, reeling in yellowfin tuna, squid, tilapia and barracuda
Nearby, the Lost Boys are serving fried lentil balls with Filipino power and vegetables and our team leader Joshua is strumming a guitar by a crackling bonfire.
The only activities – besides feasting – are sharing stories by the fire and dancing under the stars.
Thirty-two miles (52km) away is our next stop Manlihan Island.
Often referred to as Cobra Island, it is tied to a local legend which speaks of Japanese soldiers hiding treasure here during WWII.
When fishermen found the chest, it was supposedly decorated with a magnificent golden cobra.
Today, the treasure hunt unfolds beneath the surrounding waters teeming with vibrant coral gardens and turtles.
Tucking into breakfast onboard the boat, we spot one peeking its head above the water and are soon swimming alongside it.
The expedition culminates on Mangenguey Island, at a Crusoe-style camp built from the remains of a typhoon-wrecked resort.
Other than feasting, the only activities on this island are dancing under the stars and sharing stories by the fire
Its white sands feel like a plush carpet and the water is so clear you can see the bottom when your feet no longer touch the ground.
Unlike previous basecamps, this one is not short of amenities with beach volleyball, basketball, lounge spaces with hammocks, a fire dancing show and a beach bar serving beer, wine and cocktails.
Behind it all is a dry, grassy hill topped with three bamboo towers for the ultimate sundowners.
From here, I look for the second star to the right and am reminded of where it all began on Cadlao Island, the ‘Neverland of the Philippines’
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