Looking back, it was love at first sight. Aged 23 and having barely travelled, I still vividly recall that first airport transfer from Dalaman to Kalkan: the widescreen landscapes with the gargantuan peaks of the Taurus mountains cloaked in jade-green forest, a narrow ribbon of road winding between.
Back then, Turkey was an unusual summer holiday choice. Thirty years on it’s become a firm British favourite, with 4.4 million of us drawn to its glorious scenery, fantastic food and alluring warmth – both of weather and personality. I have always found locals to possess an irresistible joie de vivre, plus a sense of humour that’s surprisingly similar to ours.
But success comes at a price. Some towns have grown into mega-resorts, with sprawling all-inclusive hotels, overcrowded beaches and little feeling of the real Turkey.
Happily, that’s just one small part of the story. Turkey is a huge country and there are plenty of unspoilt corners off the mainstream radar.
Having spent the past 30 years visiting 41 times these are the places I love most . . . plus a few spots to avoid at all costs.
KALKAN CALLING
At night time in Kalkan you can enjoy rooftop jazz bars, gourmet restaurants and a dressed-up vibe, with a late-night cocktail scene
Sophisticated and chic, Kalkan has grown from a small fishing village into a major resort between Kas and Fethiye on the ‘Turquoise Coast’ during the past three decades, although most accommodation is luxury villas or boutique hotels.
By day, many people head to one of the beach clubs fringing the town – which run free boat transfers from the harbour.
It’s at night that the old town really comes alive. Enjoy rooftop jazz bars, gourmet restaurants and a dressed-up vibe, with a late-night cocktail scene (rather than thumping clubs).
My tip: Bag a seat at the Merkez cafe in the old town – great for people-watching.
How to do it: Doubles from £164 B&B at Courtyard hotel (hotel.courtyardkalkan.com); fly to Dalaman.
TRANQUIL AKYAKA
Akyaka offers first-class alfresco fish restaurants and a pleasant beach backed by the imposing Taurus mountains
One of Turkey’s 13 so-called cittaslows (or slow towns), which focus on local produce and maintaining unspoilt natural landscapes, Akyaka faces pretty Gokova Bay in the province of Mugla and has a tranquil atmosphere.
It shot to the top of my favourites list after a recent visit, with its first-class alfresco fish restaurants and pleasant beach backed by the imposing Taurus mountains. At night, some restaurant tables are set on the sand. If you’ve sporty teenagers, this is the place to come; Aykaya is Turkey’s premier watersports hub.
My tip: Eat simple, authentic dishes – kofte (meatballs) and pide (Turkish pizza) at Meshur Kofteci Ilbey on Nergiz Street.
How to do it: Doubles from £165 B&B at Iskelem Otel (iskelemotel.com.tr); fly to Dalaman.
ALLURE OF ALACATI
Although Alacati is a few miles inland from the Aegean Sea on the Cesme peninsula, chic beach clubs are within easy reach
With cobbled streets swathed in claret-hued bougainvillea, chic rooftop bars and the country’s best food scene outside Istanbul, Alacati is superb for a short break.
Restaurants vie to offer the most meze – hot and cold starters, dips and salads – in their chiller cabinets; just point at whichever you fancy for a mouthwatering selection of small plates.
Although Alacati is a few miles inland from the Aegean Sea on the Cesme peninsula, chic beach clubs are within easy reach and Ilica public beach is close.
My tip: The town’s famous windmills, dating from the 1800s, enjoy lovely sunset views.
How to do it: Doubles from £147 B&B at Gaia Alacati (hotelsgaia.com); fly to Izmir.
DILLY-DALLY IN DALYAN
Take a trip through the River Delta to the beach, observing the dramatic Lycian rock tombs carved into the mountainside above
Every time I visit Dalyan, I’m struck by how little has changed. It’s a peaceful riverside town, with small, blue-and-white ferries chugging back and forth to Iztuzu beach. Bars and restaurants are set on riverside decks, and hotels with hammock-strewn gardens are dotted along the banks, too.
I love the boat trip through the River Delta to the beach, observing the dramatic Lycian rock tombs carved into the mountainside above.
My tip: Bag a riverside table at La Boheme, a top-notch cocktail bar and restaurant (labohemedalyan.com).
How to do it: Seven nights at Neo Dalyan Villas from £1,761pp, sleeping eight, including flights, car hire or transfer (simpsontravel.com); fly to Dalaman.
KAS IT’S AUTHENTIC
Kas is lovely for a wander, with small boutiques, antique shops and restaurants set on quiet squares
Kalkan’s larger, more traditional sibling Kas has retained more of its authentic feel, with many of the hotels located on the peninsula, a five-minute taxi ride from the old town. The latter is lovely for a wander, with small boutiques, antique shops and restaurants set on quiet squares, while the daily ferry to the Greek island of Meis offers two countries for the price of one. It’s great for the active, with hiking, mountain-biking and white-water rafting nearby.
My tip: Don’t miss the Friday market (but be prepared to haggle).
How to do it: Seven nights at Casa Bi from £1,611pp including flights and transfers (simpsontravel.com); fly to Dalaman.
SAIL AWAY TO GOCEK
Aside from the scenery, Gocek is a great place to shop, with one-off boutiques selling everything from hand-made kaftans to jewellery and ceramics
A sheltered bay that has grown into Turkey’s premier sailing hub, Gocek manages to be both chic and laid-back, with a lovely long waterfront lined with restaurants. The surrounding coastline is some of Turkey’s most beautiful, so I always take a boat trip on one of the gulets (traditional wooden boats) from the harbour. It’s a great place to shop, too, with one-off boutiques selling everything from hand-made kaftans to jewellery and ceramics.
My tip: Pop into Baba Dondurma for great ice-cream (the pistachio is to die for).
How to do it: Seven nights at the D-Resort Gocek from £1,289pp B&B, including flights and transfers (britishairways.com); fly to Dalaman.
RESTFUL MOUNTAINS
Faralya is popular with walkers as the long distance Lycian Trail is close by, snaking through Butterly Valley to a lovely, unspoilt beach
The white-knuckle drive to the quiet mountain village of Faralya, south from Olu Deniz, is worth it for the views alone. Perfect for a restful week, with little to do but soak up the views and snooze on a sunlounger. It’s also popular with walkers as the long distance Lycian Trail is close by, snaking through Butterly Valley to a lovely, unspoilt beach.
My tip: Regular buses run to the bright lights and buzz of Olu Deniz, about 40 minutes away.
How to do it: Seven nights at the Mandarin Boutique Hotel from £1,309pp B&B, including flights and transfers (cachet-travel.com); fly to Dalaman.
TURKEY’S BEST BEACH?
At Patara’s beach, loggerhead turtles lay eggs on the more remote sands, and the sprawling remains of the ancient Lycian city lie behind the dunes
My all-time favourite Turkish beach at Patara comprises 22km of sugar-soft sand, almost entirely undeveloped save for a couple of stretches of sunloungers and a ramshackle beach cafe. Loggerhead turtles lay eggs on the more remote sands, and the sprawling remains of the ancient Lycian city lie behind the dunes. The village of Patara is a couple of kilometres inland, with a vibe that’s far more boho than bling.
My tip: Order gozleme at the cafe – freshly-made flatbreads, baked on a hot stone, filled with feta cheese and herbs or spiced potatoes.
How to do it: Seven nights at Hotel Dardanos from £1,377pp B&B including flights and transfers (cachet-travel.com); fly to Dalaman.
BANK ON BODRUM
The super-luxe, all-inclusive Hotel Lujo in Bodrum
Turkey’s original tourist resort, Bodrum may be big, but it’s maintained an authentic charm. Browse for beautiful ceramics, leatherware and jewellery in the bazaar, take a 12-island boat trip or discover the town’s dramatic history at the Museum of Underwater Archaeology. At night, Bodrum blazes into life with live music bars, rooftop cocktail terraces and waterfront restaurants.
My tip: Bag a table at Orfoz, where the six-course tasting menu is marvellous (orfoz.net).
How to do it: Seven nights at the super-luxe Lujo from £2,369pp all-inclusive including flights and transfers (tui.com); fly to Bodrum.
GLAMOROUS GOLTURKBUKU
Golturkbuku has beach clubs with overwater decks, DJs and expertly mixed cocktails dot the coastline during the day, while in the evenings restaurants serve fresh catches
Considered the St Tropez of Turkey, Golturkbuku is the most glamorous of the small seaside resorts that fringe the Bodrum peninsula, around a half-hour drive from town. Beach clubs with overwater decks, DJs and expertly mixed cocktails dot the coastline during the day, while in the evenings restaurants serve fresh catches. The Blue Flag beach is ideal for watersports.
My tip: Drop in for cocktails at the A-list favourite Macakizi, one of Turkey’s hippest hotels (macakizi.com).
How to do it: Seven nights at the Maxx Royal from £2,709pp all-inclusive, including flights and transfers (jet2.com); fly to Bodrum.
OLD-FASHIONED CUNDA
The extra-virgin olive oil in Cunda is considered Turkey’s best
When I discovered Cunda, a small island connected to the Aegean coast by a causeway, I felt as if I’d stepped back 25 years. Old Ottoman-style houses with traditional wooden balconies overlook quiet streets and cobbled squares that once housed a Greek population.
The waterfront is the place for an evening promenade and a cold Efes beer, while in the day I like to pop back across to the mainland to browse in the antique shops in the old streets of Ayvalik, on the other side of the causeway.
My tip: Take home a bottle of extra-virgin olive oil, considered Turkey’s best.
How to do it: Doubles from £132 B&B at the Cunda Ilios hotel (cundailios.com); fly to Izmir.
CAPTIVATING CAPPADOCIA
The soft stone in Cappadocia has been hollowed into cave dwellings, and you can take an ‘unforgettable’ balloon ride at dawn
This extraordinary region in Central Anatolia is home to spectacular rock formations that have been whipped by the wind into rugged cone shapes over the centuries.
The soft stone has been hollowed into cave dwellings, many now converted into atmospheric hotels, while the subterranean cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu are well worth exploring. A balloon ride at dawn is unforgettable.
My tip: The Kocabag winery in Uchisar offers tastings and tours (kocabag.com).
How to do it: Seven nights at the Kale Konak hotel in Uchisar from £1,350pp B&B including flights and transfers (cachet-travel.com); fly to Kayseri, the historical capital of Cappadocia.
DAZZLE OF ISTANBUL
The Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, which ‘shouldn’t be missed’
One of the world’s most remarkable cities, Istanbul is a bridge between two continents; the European and Asian sides split by the sparkling Bosphorus. The big draws – the Hagia Sophia Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque – shouldn’t be missed. But there’s much to explore in quieter neighbourhoods. I love Cukurcuma, dotted with antique shops. Take the ferry to the Asian side, where the market and restaurant-lined streets make it ideal for lunch.
My tip: Visit Zeyrek Cinili Hamam, a newly-restored 500-year-old Turkish baths (zeyrekcinilihamam.com/tr).
How to do it: Three nights at The Elysium Istanbul from £223pp, room-only, including flights (easyjet.com); fly to Istanbul.
FANTASTIC FOCA
Day boats go each morning to Foca’s nearby islands, which offer fantastic snorkelling and the chance to spot rare monk seals
Foca comprises two separate towns, but it’s Eski (Old) Foca that’s the real draw; a lattice of pretty streets wrapped around old stone houses, opening onto a tranquil waterfront. Day boats go each morning to the nearby islands, which offer fantastic snorkelling and the chance to spot rare monk seals. Don’t miss the striking medieval Foca Aqueduct and the imposing remains of Beskapilar Castle.
My tip: Sample crispy calamari and fresh seafood at Fokai Balik Restaurant (121 Street).
How to do it: Doubles at Navali from £135 B&B (navaliaotel.com); fly to Izmir.
SHIMMERING LAGOON
Nothing can detract from Olu Deniz’s superb sweep of beach and shimmering lagoon
The biggest resort on my list, don’t go to Olu Deniz for peace and quiet, though nothing can detract from its superb sweep of beach and shimmering lagoon. Stroll along the sands long enough and you’ll find a quiet spot.
And Olu makes a great base for visiting the intriguing town of Fethiye and ghost village of Kaya. You can paraglide off the top of Babadag mountain and land on the beach (or watch others do so with an ice-cold Efes).
My tip: Inci restaurant (Belcegiz Caddesi) offers delicious, authentic Turkish food.
How to do it: Seven nights at the Montana Pine Resort from £657pp all-inclusive including flights and transfers (tui.com); fly to Dalaman.
PEACEFUL SELIMIYE
Though Selimiye is a bit short on beaches, but there are plenty of sunbathing decks
Set beside a tranquil bay on Bozburun peninsula, low-rise Selimiye is a charming cluster of boutique hotels, seafood restaurants and cafes, kept busy by yachts and gulets mooring each evening. It’s a bit short on beaches, but there are plenty of sunbathing decks. I often hop on the bus to the nearby village of Orhaniye, famous for a sand bar that stretches into the bay, making it look like you’re walking on water.
My tip: Try ev yemekleri (home cooking) at the Zelis restaurant.
How to do it: Seven nights at the Boho Garden from £740pp B&B including transfers (discerningcollection.com); fly to Dalaman.
SERENITY IN SIRINCE
Famous as a wine town, Sirince’s winding streets are dotted with shops and ‘wine caves’ selling the region’s traditional fruit wines
This hillside town is crammed with historic Ottoman houses. Sirince is also handy for visiting the ancient site of Ephesus, 20 minutes’ drive away. Many buildings have been converted into boutique hotels with leafy terraces and wonderful mountain views. Famous as a wine town, the winding streets are dotted with shops and ‘wine caves’ selling the region’s traditional fruit wines.
My tip: Some cafes serve Turkish coffee made the traditional way, cooked slowly in hot sand.
How to do it: Doubles from £187 B&B at the Nisanyan Evleri Hotel (nisanyan.com); fly to Izmir.
TURTLE HAVEN
Cirali’s unspoilt beach makes it perfect for a chilled-out holiday
Due to loggerhead turtles that use the shoreline at Cirali as a maternity ward, the sands are protected from development, so the beach is unspoilt.
It’s perfect for a chilled-out holiday, although its main inland attraction is (literally) hot. Accessed by a hiking trail from the village, the ‘Chimera’ are flames that flicker up out of the rocks, caused by methane deposits. There are no big hotels, just simple bungalows and pansyons (traditional B&Bs).
My tip: Drop in for pide, the Turkish equivalent of pizza, at buzzy Simge (simgepansiyon.com).
How to do it: Doubles from £135 B&B at the Nerissa Hotel (hotelnerissa.com); fly to Antalya.
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