My love of Moroccan culture began with a stack of old films. From Casablanca all the way to Arabic flicks almost unheard of in the UK, I was gripped by images of wild landscapes, bustling marketplaces and the heady mix of tradition and religion adjusting to 21st-century life.
After completing my studies in French and Arabic, I booked a one-way flight and spent a month in Morocco’s capital, Rabat, before travelling around the country for another month.
My days were spent hiking to the Akchour waterfalls, camel riding in the Sahara, surfing on quiet beaches and exploring the white stone streets of cities.
Yet, as the number of flights to Morocco steadily rises, many of the country’s most popular spots are sadly becoming tourist traps – especially in the summer.
But if you venture off the beaten track – and follow my guide – you’ll discover peaceful beaches, high-quality local markets and magnificent historic landmarks.
So, here are my top spots Morocco… plus a few places to avoid.
Riveting Rabat
Not long after stepping off the plane at Rabat-Sale Airport for my month in Morocco’s capital, I was struck by the cosmopolitan nature of the city; its buzzing neighbourhoods with modern shopping centres, the skyscrapers and slick apartment blocks.
Situated on the Bouregreg River and the Atlantic Ocean, Rabat perfectly encapsulates the duality found throughout Morocco. On the one hand there are many French and European influences, from the language to pastries and – my personal favourite – the pretty Andalusian gardens. But then there’s the well-preserved Islamic culture – as you discover visiting the city’s 12th-century Hassan tower, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Royal Palace, the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art and Chellah (a medieval fortified Muslim necropolis).
The unmissable sight is the Kasbah of the Udayas. Dating from the 12th century, this royal fort looks impenetrable, an imposing hill with a castle-like structure at its peak. But step through the opening gateway and you’ll be transported back in time.
Stone pathways, whitewashed walls, blue doorways and mosaic arches line the labyrinthine pathways of the Kasbah, leading you to the city’s medina, or market. Far from the chaotic haggling of Marrakech’s souk and medina, the atmosphere here is calm, with the occasional friendly shop owner beckoning. If you want good-quality market items, this is where to go.
Then head down to the beach where well-priced surfing lessons are offered.
MY TIP: Visit the Kasbah at night, try the brilliant Restaurant Dar El Kebira (darelkebira.com), then pop into Le Dhow for a cocktail on board a converted ship on the Bouregreg River (ledhow.com).
BOOK IT: Seven nights at Stayhere Rabat – Agdal 1 – Comfort Residence, including Stansted flights from £363pp (onthebeach.co.uk).
Easygoing Essaouira
With a coffee shop culture to rival the likes of London, New York and Copenhagen, the sleepy fishing village of Essaouira is a hugely underrated spot for a seaside holiday.
The beach in this port city stretches for miles and with white sands and calm waters it’s a great place to relax. But if you’re on the adventurous side, the windy parts of the beach attract windsurfers and water sport lovers from around the world.
As a caffeine fanatic, I love wandering about the winding alleyways, soaking up the atmosphere at spots with excellent coffee. Some highlights include Mandala Society (mandalasociety.co), which does a great brunch, Picknick Cafe (22 Rue Youssef El Fassi) and Sisterhood, a coffee shop and vintage store that hosts rooftop yoga classes (191 Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah).
There are daily direct buses from Marrakech through companies including CTM, which offers comfortable journeys for excellent prices (ctm.ma). Alternatively, hire a car and drive through the beautiful scenery yourself.
MY TIP: Cafe l’Esprit in the medina is a literary-minded coffee shop with good snack food (I would go every afternoon for a treat).
BOOK IT: Seven nights at Riad Mimouna including return Stansted-Agadir flights from £419pp B&B (thomascook.com).
Deep in Sahara
Lose yourself in the immersive landscape of the Sahara, surrounded by miles of dunes. It’s a great experience all year round, though it’s better to go off-season so it’s not so claustrophobically hot. I struggled to sleep in the glamping tents with 30C temperatures at night.
Plenty of tour guides run trips into the desert to and from Merzouga, the base camp for visiting the Sahara, and you can add an overnight stay with an unobstructed view of the stars.
MY TIP: If you’re keen to ride a camel – which I certainly was – request alternative transport on the return journey. While it’s certainly fun, your thigh muscles will be thankful. And take a headscarf to keep sand out of your hair and eyes.
BOOK IT: Guided tours offered with overnight stays in tents and camel rides by Sahara Desert Tour (saharadeserttour.com).
Insider Marrakech
Marrakech, home to snake charmers and fake designer handbags, has been on travel bucket lists for years. But it’s popular for a reason with its plethora of great restaurants, the chaotic bustle and fun of the central place, Jamaa el Fna, and fantastic markets.
For eating, my favourite spots are Naranj (naranj.ma) or Mazel (8 Place des Ferblantiers) for falafel and other Middle Eastern delights. Or, for a modern take on Moroccan cuisine, try Le Jardin (lejardinmarrakech.com), DarDar (rooftopdardar.com) and Nomad (nomadmarrakech.com) – each is world-class.
Attractions to visit include the blue Jardin Majorelle and Yves Saint Laurent Museum. Go to Dar el Bacha for the most expensive but aesthetic coffee of your life, the Bahia Palace, Koutoubia Mosque and the Madrasa Ben Youssef. Be dressed appropriately as some require shoulders to be covered. The tile mosaics and majestic architecture are wonderful.
MY TIP: On many street corners in the Marrakech medina, you’ll find hole-in-the-wall bakeries and patisseries. For breakfast from a local bakery, ask for m’semen bread and almond briouats.
BOOK IT: Seven nights at Les Jardins de la Medina from £719pp B&B including flights (tropicalsky.co.uk).
Surf’s up in Taghazout
Surfer’s paradise Taghazout is just a stone’s throw from Agadir airport. This tiny beachside town has perfect waves and a laid-back feel – a haven for anyone seeking a calm coastal getaway. Relax at independent cafes and enjoy the magnificent scenery. In the town centre, you’ll find great beach bars, restaurants and cafes. Red Clay Cafe (redclay.ma) and Teapot Cafe (Route d’Essaouira) are best for iced lattes, avocado toast and baked goods.
In terms of sun and surf, the main beach is great, but if you walk for a few minutes from the centre you’ll soon find a secluded spot.
MY TIP: For the best sunsets it’s a 15-minute walk to a local skatepark and, while this might not sound like a relaxing viewpoint, its the top spot as you’re higher up. Also, as there are no ATMs in town, make sure you get cash ahead of going.
BOOK IT: Stansted-Agadir return flights from £122 (ryanair.com); it’s 30-minute taxi ride to the town; king bed ocean view rooms at the Hyatt Regency Taghazout from £283 a night (hyatt.com).
Starstruck in Ouarzazate
Are you a fan of Game Of Thrones? Ever watched the epic Lawrence Of Arabia? The Mummy? Salmon Fishing In The Yemen? If the answer is yes, you’ll have seen the sandy, orange-coloured scenery of Ouarzazate before, without even realising it. Located halfway between Marrakech and the Sahara, this unassuming town is a film-making hotspot.
You won’t need more than a day, but it’s well worth a stop, especially if you’re passing through on the way to the desert. Film buffs can take a tour of Atlas Studios, and there’s a maze-like kasbah that’s great place to explore.
MY TIP: Try quad biking – zooming through the desert at high speed.
BOOK IT: This is worth visiting as part of a larger trip to the Sahara desert.
Tempting Tangiers
Tangiers has a dilapidated charm. It’s known for its artistic and intellectual history (writers such as Ian Fleming and Tennessee Williams used to visit), as well as for being a cultural hub.
Walking past Teatro Cervantes (teatrocervantes.com), drinking coffee in the iconic Gran Cafe de Paris (on Place de France) and watching artsy movies at Cinema Rif (cinemathequedetanger.com), you’ll feel transported back to the 1940s.
Tangiers’s kasbah is exceptionally beautiful – and home to art galleries and museums. Combine a stop at the Kasbah museum with an hour at the Contemporary Art Museum.
Nearby Cape Spartel, which marks where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, is a fabulous lookout spot, and the Grand Socco and Petit Socco are this city’s take on market culture.
MY TIP: Grab brunch at Alma (almatanger.com), then head for Les Insolites (28 Khalid Ibn Al Oualid) for its cosy bookshop vibes, and Sunday Bazar vitage clothing shop (87 Avenue Mohammed V).
BOOK IT: Seven nights at the Hilton Garden Inn Tanger City Center hotel plus return flights from Manchester from £429pp (loveholidays.com).
Quiet in Asilah
A short train ride away from Tangiers is Asilah, a quiet coastal town with plenty of alleyways to explore. It has what I consider one of the best medinas in Morocco featuring endless little shops and spots to stop for lunch, yet it’s not chaotic. Stall owners do not harrass you; it’s remarkably calm.
Visit in the summer months for a beach holiday with a few days spent exploring the city walls. The town’s food market offers fantastic fresh produce.
MY TIP: Moroccan street food is at it best in Asilah. Avoid eating fresh fruit and veg without washing it, but bakeries offering chebakia sweet treats and cafes serving mint tea are wonderful.
BOOK IT: Heathrow-Tangiers return flights, via Paris, from £176 (airfrance.co.uk); on arrival it’s a 40-minute taxi to Asilah. Doubles at Riad Casa Bahia Asilah from £72 (booking.com).
Mountainous Chefchaouen
You may have seen photos of this blue town, nestled high in the Rif mountains. It’s becoming more and more popular because of its ‘Instagrammable’ facades.
The hiking in the scenery around Chefchaouen is unparalleled. You could also spend days wandering the colourful medina, or enjoy a sunset walk up to the Spanish Mosque. The views are breathtaking, and well worth the steep steps.
MY TIP: Just a short drive from the city is an hour-long hike to the beautiful Akchour waterfalls, where you can pause and enjoy a mint tea. In the summer, it’s perfect for a peaceful dip, so make sure to take a swimming costume and towel.
BOOK IT: Heathrow-Tangiers return flights, via Paris, from £176 (airfrance.co.uk); from Tangiers, the nearest airport, to Chefchaouen it’s a two hour bus/taxi ride away. Doubles from £184 B&B at Taj Chefchaouen Luxury Hotel and Spa (booking.com).
Tourist-free Tetouan
Tetouan sees few tourists. It’s a clean, modern city and many of the buildings are painted in a bright green shade that adds an elegance to the centre. This Arab-Andalusian city boasts a busy souk and excellent museums, so it’s a great option if you’re looking for authenticity and culture.
MY TIP: Feddan park is a lovely open space to people-watch – perhaps while munching on sardines, harissa (spiced soup) or a bowl of couscous.
BOOK IT: Heathrow-Tangiers return flights, via Paris, from £176 (airfrance.co.uk); it’s a one-hour and 20-minute drive from Tangiers airport to Tetouan. Doubles at Hotel Blanco Riad from £54 (booking.com).
Fortress Delights
Ait Benhaddou is a fortress that’s also a Unesco World Heritage Site, found along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. It’s been used as the backdrop for films such as Gladiator and The Mummy.
With street stalls and tiny art shops, this is an oasis of activity on what feels like an endless road.
MY TIP: It’s a great stop off point on your way to the desert – stretch your legs, take a short hike to the top, and admire the view.
BOOK IT: To visit Ait Benhaddou, book return flights to Marrakech airport from £74 from Stansted (ryanair.com); you can take a day trip from Marrakech from £25 (getyourguide.com).
Gorgeous Gorges
On my way to the Sahara, I booked a guided drive through the gorges of the Dades Valley.
Encompassing nomadic crossings, rose valleys and kasbahs and passing from the High Atlas to the Jebel Saghro range, you quickly understand why the region got its other name: the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs.
MY TIP: Hike along hidden livestock tracks between the Dades and Todra Gorges and find small local restaurants along the way to put your feet up for some well-deserved lunch.
BOOK IT: Two-nights from £169pp excluding flights (rickshawtravel.co.uk).
…AND HERE ARE SOME SPOTS TO AVOID
Agadir
If you’re after an all-inclusive beach break, Agadir might be a great option, but for an introduction to Moroccan culture it will more than likely disappoint. This city is a tad rundown and doesn’t boast as much warmth, style and hospitality as other parts of the country. By all means head there if you just want to lie by a hotel pool, but if you’re looking for a vibrant cultural break or a luxurious beach vacation, you’re better off heading somewhere such as Tangiers or Taghazout.
Casablanca
Aside from its imposing, impressive Hassan II Mosque, there’s not much to see in Casablanca. Characterised by pollution, cars and high-rise buildings, this city is overwhelming at the best of times, and has neither the calm serenity of beach towns such as Asilah nor the immersive and entertaining markets of Marrakech and Fez. It’s not worth a visit – unless you’re after a booming nightlife scene.
Marrakech in peak season
While Marrakech has plenty of delights to unearth, if you visit in peak summer (July to August) you’ll end up staying inside your air-conditioned hotel room. Most of my time in Marrakech was in June, which was fabulous as I got the best of both worlds – sunshine and heat without the extreme dryness. But on my last day I felt the unbearable temperatures descend. With the weather reaching 45C, I was so hot and bothered that I ended up heading to the airport five hours early, seeking shelter in the air-conditioned international terminal.
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