As Nik Jhangiani, interim boss of Diageo, set out of his stall to revive the flailing owner of Guinness stout and Johnnie Walker whisky earlier this month, he insisted that there was money to be made in sobriety.
Jhangiani, whose predecessor Debra Crew’s recent abrupt departure shone a light on the radical changes transforming the drinks market, said people wanting to drink less was an ‘opportunity’.
‘Consumers who are moderating are not socialising any less across a broad range of occasions,’ Jhangiani said. The group dubbed moderation as a ‘significant growth opportunity’ for Diageo.
On the one hand the industry is under pressure from weight-loss drugs like Mounjaro and Ozempic, which suppress alcohol cravings – and from the ‘sober curious’ movement among Generation Z – those born between 1997 and 2012.
Popular non-alcoholic drinks include Mother Root – a blend of ginger, cider vinegar and chilli, which sells for £27.95 in Waitrose – and Trip [backed by DMG Ventures], a sparkling drink infused with CBD – an active but non-addictive ingredient in cannabis which comes in seven flavours.
Sales of these ‘no and low’ alcohol drinks are up 28 per cent at Ocado and 32 per cent at Waitrose, while pubs are predicted to sell a record-breaking 33million pints of no and low alcohol beer this summer, according to the British Beer and Pub Association.
No and low alcohol drinks are on a ‘gradual march into the mainstream’, according to Kantar’s Fraser McKevitt.
Figures from the market research firm showed that nearly seven in every 100 households bought one last month, pushing sales up by 21 per cent.
Jesse Wilson, the co-founder of Jubel beer, says he is sceptical of ‘noise creating headlines around Gen Z and not drinking.’
‘There’s a trend towards well-being-focused drinking that doesn’t compromise on flavour or social connection,’ says Sarah Holland, low-and-no buyer for Waitrose, grocer to the middle-classes.
Olivia Ferdi, founder of Trip, which claims to be the UK’s largest privately owned soft drinks company, goes further.
‘The number one reason people drink alcohol is to relax and unwind, but most alcohol-free options don’t deliver on the taste or relaxing side,’ she says.
That’s why DMGT Ventures-backed Trip’s CBD-infused pastel cans promise to take the edge off a long day.
But there are also dramatic shifts in the market for alcoholic drinks.
Traditional aperitifs such as gin and tonic are being replaced by the likes of Hugo Spritz – a mix of elderflower liqueur, prosecco, mint, soda water and lime – and the Buzzballz, a potent, pre-mixed cocktail that comes in a ball-shaped can.
So is Britain really going teetotal or is the story more a significant shift away from traditional brands?
‘We are very aware of the growing trend in non-alcoholic drinking. But there is a parallel and equally strong movement toward moderation, where consumers are choosing to drink less but better,’ argues Ed Faulkner, co-founder of Sapling Spirits, which makes ‘climate-positive vodka’ from winter wheat.
Jesse Wilson, the co-founder of Jubel beer, which now comes in peach and elderflower flavours, says he is sceptical of ‘noise creating headlines around Gen Z and not drinking.’
He reckons it is more the case that cost of living pressures mean people ‘cannot afford to go out as much or consume as much.’
‘We believe Gen Z is more discerning and thoughtful about what they consume,’ says Jess Scheerhorn, the vice president of BuzzBallz
But adds that preferences are changing. ‘People are not buying into traditional things, traditional beer and cider are really struggling to recruit. Consumers are more looking for slightly untraditional products’.
This includes drinks that are ‘more accessible’ and ‘easier to drink,’ he says, referencing his elderflower and peach flavoured beers.
‘They will ultimately vote with their taste buds first, and then after that, I think they will seek more products that do align with a slightly healthier, more active lifestyle, so things that are a bit lighter.’
But he says pubs face a battle to keep prices low – the price of one of his Jubel beers has risen from £5.50 pre-Covid to as high as £8 in London today.
Jubel’s Wilson adds: ‘Consumers are more looking for slightly untraditional products that align with a slightly healthier, more active lifestyle.’
His brand puts this into practice by partnering with ‘wellness’ social media stars and run clubs to advertise his beers.
Not all traditional beers are falling by the wayside. Last summer’s shortage of Guinness, underlined that there is a multitude of new fans for this ‘stout’.
‘Guinness has historically been the acquired taste of older male,’ says Tim Martin, the boss and founder of pub chain JD Wetherspoon.
‘Now, however, the main consumers are younger males, but also, younger females. How can that be? No one can be sure. It may be a temporary fashion, in the way that gin was pre-pandemic, or it might be a longer term trend.’
Celebrities such as reality TV star Kim Kardashian and pop stars Olivia Rodrigo and Beyonce have bolstered the drink’s ‘cool’ reputation after posting pictures sipping pints.
‘What we are seeing is that when consumers come out, they are prepared to pay a premium for good food and drinks,’ Simon Dodd, the boss of pub chain Young’s, said.
Another sign that Britain hasn’t ditched its love affair with the sauce is the litany of brightly coloured ready-to-drink cans on the market now.
‘We believe Gen Z is more discerning and thoughtful about what they consume,’ says Jess Scheerhorn, the vice president of BuzzBallz, which was bought by US drinks giant Sazerac last year. ‘People want something that tastes great, is fun to drink, and fits their on-the-go lifestyle. We bring cocktail bar vibes to wherever the moment takes you.’
Trip, a sparkling soft drink infused with CBD, has proved popular
Merrille Kick, founder of the brand, adds: ‘Do I think young people drinking less is a problem? No. We are a world of social and physical comforts, we drink, play risky sports, we eat carbs and we eat bacon. Sometimes we are driven by fun and the memories you get while enjoying those favourite beverages!’
Diageo’s Jhangiani this week also attempted to play down the growing uptake of ‘fat jabs’, as GLP-1 medicines are known.
But he said the group was keeping a ‘close eye’ on the impact of these drugs and thinking about how to appeal to consumers concerned with ‘portion control, calorie control’.
In January, veteran fund manager Terry Smith dumped his stake inDiageo arguing that the rise of weight-loss drugs could hit demand for its products.
Despite the increased uptake of weight-loss jabs, Jubel’s Wilson says that there is nothing can truly suppress Brits’ appetite for a night at the pub with their friends.
‘People don’t just drink to sort of get drunk, it’s a social lubricant. Ozempic might change your appetite a little bit, but I don’t think it would change your appetite for socialising.
‘Those are some of the best, memory-forming occasions, and particularly when you’re in your 20s and early 30s.
‘Those are the sort of weekends and the moments you kind of live for.’
Traditional aperitifs such as gin and tonic are being replaced by the likes of Hugo Spritz
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